Reflections of the Kokoda Track
by Jenny Rainbow
In Easter this year, Jenny Rainbow, a teacher from Victoria Australia, decided to trek the Kokoda Trail in Papua New Guinea with some friends. Her story is one of warmth, remembrance and respect. It's a great read and our thanks go out to Julie for sharing her experience with us all.
From Jenny....
When I first decided to walk the Kokoda Track it was all about the trek. Could I complete this 96 km long trail that was filled with sharp steep ascents and descents? Could I cope with the long days of walking and would I be brave enough to cross the many rivers that I would face each day, sometimes on shaky, narrow bamboo logs? I had done some pretty exciting treks over the last few years and I felt this was going to be the hardest physical challenge of all. I'd heard all about the leeches, mosquitoes and mud and actually found myself questioning at times what compelled me to walk this track. Still, I was committed and along with 5 girlfriends we began our training up our local hills and mountains. I had opted to hire a local porter to carry my main pack which included my sleeping bag, mat, tent and small amount of clothing. I was to carry my day pack with basic needs, most importantly drinking water.
What I discovered when I began my journey was that it was much more than just a trek. It was also very much about the history and the culture of The Track. Along the way there are constant reminders of the events that took place on this trail over 60 years ago. Finding unexploded bombs and bullets, eating utensils and even soldier's helmets along the trail is a harsh reminder that this track was far more than just a beautiful, path through the lovely New Guinean jungle. There are constant reminders that in WW2 this place was home to battles and fighting, events that would change the future of Australia. Standing at the famous Memorial site at Isurava you are presented with four huge blocks of marble each inscribed with one word: SACRIFICE, COURAGE, ENDURANCE and MATESHIP. It is a very moving experience. One of the ladies in our group left a photograph of her father at this site, as he had fought in New Guinea, but was lucky to survive.
A photo of the diggers (soldiers) from 1942
We were very fortunate with the weather conditions on our 9 day experience. We had very little rain and most of that was at night, so we didn't experience any of the mud that the soldiers were faced with all those years ago. No rain kept the mosquitoes and leeches at bay so that wasn't as big an issue as we had anticipated. The track was certainly steep and very narrow in most places, often with treacherous drops off to one side. It was slippery in parts and full of tree roots so we found the concentration when walking to be quite intense.
Generally we actually found the trek very enjoyable and our training had allowed us to embrace the experience without the sore and aching muscles that we otherwise would have experienced. It was wonderful to wade into fresh, cold mountain streams at the end of the day to rinse off the days sweat. The weather was extremely humid and our clothes were constantly wet. Even after rinsing them at night, they wouldn't dry and needed to be peeled on wet the next morning.We slept in tents for 3 nights and the remaining 5 nights were in large open thatched huts where we all bunked in together. It was reminiscent of school camp nights.
Jenny on the Kokoda Track
Our group of 6 girls joined 3 other young men so we were a small group of 9 but with guides and porters we numbered 19. The camaraderie of the group was wonderful and the kindness and thoughtfulness by our leaders was welcomed. Every rest stop was greeted with the cries of 'Oro Oro Oro' which translates to 'welcome, welcome welcome', and boiling water was always ready for us to make our tea. There were three ukuleles amongst the tour group. Every night there were songs sung around the campfire and most nights we trekkers fell asleep to the strains of beautiful harmonies by the local boys.
One of our highlights on the trip was to be invited to join the local Anglican Church Service at Kokoda on the Easter Sunday. We had hoped to engage in a cultural experience by observing their Sunday service but it turned out we were the guests of honour and we were treated like royalty. We weren't allowed to leave until we had been welcomed and formally shook the hands of over 100 local people who were queued up outside the church. We were included in their meal after the service and speeches were exchanged. It was a truly humbling and special experience.
Photo on left: Jenny with the village children.
Photo on right: Jenny and friends wearing Easter bonnets that were made by their porters.
One of the great stories to come out of the war experiences on the Kokoda Track was the relationship that developed between the men from the Kokoda Villages and our Australian soldiers. These New Guineans were always there to help the Australian soldiers along this treacherous track - assisting them across rivers and carrying wounded to hospitals. These men were nicknamed the "Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels' because they were their rescuers who had brown, fuzzy, wuzzy hair.
Bomana Cemetery at Owers Corner
Even today these people are gentle and kind and willing to help others. I was touched that at the memorial site in Kokoda you will not only find a memorial plaque to remember the Australians and New Guineans that died; there is also one there to remember the young Japanese soldiers who fought and died there as well.
My trip to Kokoda was a wonderful experience in so many ways. I would encourage anyone to consider making the trek when planning their next holiday.
Locals entertaining their visitors with a singsing