Applying Makeup
by Helen Geyer
There are still a lot of theories going around today that originated a long time ago on how to choose and apply makeup. This is a simple and basic guide that is recommended by makeup artists. Today women prefer a natural approach with makeup and interviews with men show that more men prefer the 'natural' look to any other.
Why apply makeup?
There is no question that your greatest aid to looking good is a good foundation and when I say foundation, I don't mean the cosmetic. I mean your skin. A glowing, healthy complexion needs little makeup and gives an even more natural and beautiful look than any amount of makeup can achieve. Even those with problem skin that need makeup to help even out their look will have an improved appearance by looking after your skin even if it's to remove dryness so a good skincare routine is the first step to your makeup regime.
The idea behind applying makeup is not to cover up your face, but to enhance your features. Many women feel that they are not attractive, but all women have attractive features to their face. Find them and enhance them while de-emphasizing what you don't like.
Before applying make up, make sure that your skin is clean then use moisturizer and leave it for a few minutes to set.
Expiry
Makeup expires and should be replaced every 60-90 days. It gets bacteria in it that can cause skin and eye infections. I've heard a story once where a woman found a compact and when she opened it, it was filled with bugs. To avoid problems, buy makeup in small amounts and replace regularly. Lipstick stays fresher if you keep it in the fridge while you have it. Makeup needs to be kept in a cool, dry location.
Foundation
There is a belief that if you test the colour of a foundation on your wrist, it will match closely with the face. If you have tried this, then you'll know that this is not the case. When you're out shopping, test the foundation along your jaw line and view it under good lighting to make sure that there is little difference between that and the colour of your neck. This will give you the truest match of colour.
Apply foundation with a sponge for light coverage or with fingertips for a heavier coverage. Use a concealer to cover spots, dark areas and broken veins. When choosing a concealer, make it one shade lighter than your foundation. Using a light application of powder will help to remove shiny patches and set your makeup. Apply it by pressing it lightly across the skin or use a dusting brush.
Application:
Use a concealer over blemishes, dark circles etc.
Shake the bottle to mix the foundation before applying then apply a dab of foundation to the center of your face; nose, cheeks, chin, and forehead gently blending to your hair and jawline. If you've selected the colour correctly, there should be no discernible line around the face. Cover the skin up to and under your eyes.
Apply powder lightly to set the foundation.
Eyeshadow
You've no doubt heard the adage "The eyes are the windows to the soul". Applying makeup correctly to eyes can have an amazing impact on your looks and the reaction from others. Your eye makeup should define your eyes and can alter the look of them so that they either appear larger, smaller, longer, deeper or basically anything you need.
This season's fashion is based upon colours that can be mixed to create different shades. If you're unsure about colour coordination, choose a palette which has from 3-5 coordinated colours that are automatically colour matched for you.
Eyeliner
Eyeliner shapes your eyes. Choosing the correct tone for your colour can make your eyes appear accented and pretty rather than looking like you're ready for a stage show.
You might prefer to use a softer tone for light coloured eyes and you want it to match with your eyeshadow. Remember that it is not meant to be obvious - it's just meant to define your eyes.
There are a variety of eyeliners available, the most common being in liquid and pencil form. You can also use eyeshadow as an eyeliner if you want a soft look that blends well with your eyeshadow but make sure that you use a thin brush rather than the shadow applicator and be aware that it can be a problem for some because the powder can get into the eyes so this probably would not be recommended for those who wear contact lenses.
Application:
Draw a line across the top eyelid. The eyeliner must be applied above and as close as you can get to the lashes. Some makeup artists recommend drawing from inside corner out and some say the opposite is the way to do it. Go with what feels more comfortable for you. With practice, you'll draw a nice even line that will look great. It's best to do it in one smooth stroke. Start out by drawing only a thin line. If you need it thicker, you can add to it.
If you're using pencil, smudge it with a cotton swab or brush. Some pencils come with a smudger on the end of them. Be sure to only use it to soften the look, rather than spreading the line to a thick one. Liquid eyeliners tend to have a darker look than pencils so you may wish to choose one shade softer with liquid eyeliners than you normally would with pencil if you want the look to be blended and not obvious.
On the lower lid, you only need to apply liner on the outer two thirds of the lid. The liner on the top and bottom should meet at the end of the eye where the lids meet. Try using a softer looking liner on the bottom. This helps give an emphasis to the eye where your eye is the focus rather than looking like you've got a dark circle painted around the eyes. Eyeliner is supposed to help the eyelashes look thicker so try not to choose a colour that conflicts with your mascara. The soft, thin line on the lashes is enough to enhance the eye, add a touch of softness and colour and give a look of thickness to the lashes. You may choose to use a tone softer than the mascara you're wearing such as grey, tan or brown.
Mascara
Mascara emphasizes your lashes and makes your eyes look larger.
Application:
Apply the mascara evenly from just above the root to tip of the lashes, but avoid getting it on the eyelid. There's no need to apply mascara all the way to the eyelid with the recent mascara formulas and applicators that curl the lashes for you and having mascara on the lash where it meets the eyelid increases your chances of losing lashes so leave the very base of the lash free if possible. Apply a smooth, even layer and avoid clumping it too thickly. Don't forget to mascara the bottom lashes lightly too to ensure a natural look.
Blush
When choosing a blush color, matching your lipstick will create a quality look. Be careful with the colour you choose. Take your time and try a range of sample colours to see which suits your skin colour, wardrobe and makeup. It's worth the effort.
You only want a light application of blush - just the suggestion of colour rather than an obvious stripe of colour so use it very softly. If you find it's too dark, just use a touch of powder over the top to tone it down. Choose the type of blush best suited to your particular skin type. A cream blush is better for dry skin and powder blush works best for oily skin. To add glow without adding color, use a bronzing powder instead of blush on your cheeks.
Application:
Blush works better over a smooth surface therefore it is applied over your foundation so apply your foundation first.
Using a full, round brush will help the blush look more natural.
Dip your brush into the blush and gently tap off the excess.
Look into the mirror and smile. This will show you where the apple of your cheek is then gently brush from the apple upwards along your cheekbone towards the hairline.
Lipstick
Lipliner defines the lips and helps you to perfect their shape. Although it is a popular practice to use liner to change the shape of the lips, it can be easily seen in the light so it's best to keep close to your lips natural shape. Some people's lips don't need any improving and for others, just even out the lines on the lips. Choose a lipliner to match the lipstick you will be wearing.
Application:
Apply lipstick with a quality brush to give you an even coverage. Stay inside the line you've made with the lipliner then blot your lips to set the colour and then apply a final coat.
Helpful makeup tips:
- Do not share applicators or makeup as infections can be passed on.
- Make sure that your eyeliner pencil is sharp before using. This will ensure a suitably fine line that goes where you want it to.
- Do not apply a coat of mascara over the top of day old mascara. It appears lumpy and makes the mascara more obvious than the lashes. It can also break lashes.
- Wearing inappropriate makeup shows the wearer's inexperience with applying it. Make sure that the makeup you're wearing is appropriate for example, don't wear glittery, frosty or other special effects makeup during the day. They are created for evenings out. A bit of research will help you learn what makeup is used for different locations and times of the day.
- When applying lip gloss don't overdo it. Remember that it will run when it warms up on your lips so apply a teeny bit less to avoid messy lips.